Today is a rest day. We got to ‘sleep in’ until 9:30, but the truth is most were awake well before then. The toils of yesterday – to be fair it wasn’t bad – meant people just lay in their sleeping bags and rested. The wind picked up earlier in the morning at about 5am, and the tents rattled a bit. Nothing concerning though.
Leaving our tents this morning, we were met by grey skies and low clouds, nothing much above us was visible. This is a “shock”, as so far all clouds have been largely below us, or non existent. It’s also colder, no sun to distract us from the real temp. 13-15F, but feeling about 5.
After breakfast – pancakes with blueberries- I walked up and down ‘Main Street’ – the main track leading between all the various teams tents and up to the Ranger station (yes, there are full time Rangers stationed here during the climbing season) – to stretch my legs. A bit stiff since yesterday, but the walk is good. I’m not alone, many had the same thought. I met a group from Lithuania, and there was also a Russian team. Plenty room for both groups, so invasion not necessary!
As I walked everything is different. The views and the majesty of the mountains, that we clearly have taken for granted, is replaced with very low grey cloud, getting lower by the minute. After my third lap I have to head back to our camp, as the cloud has dropped so low that the camp is becoming invisible.
Snacking in the mess tent, chatting with friends, is followed by a game of Wizards, a card game brought by Etienne. Good fun! Then a lay in the tent, and read another chapter of Rory Stewart’s “How not to be a politician”. It’s quite good, but he comes across as a bit naive. The solar panel is hanging outside, hoping we can get some stuff charged. The non-stop sunshine has also led us to believe power to charge the phone is no issue. (God, not so long ago people climbed in wool and hobnail boots, and I’m concerned about my solar panel!!!) I don’t want to try and finish Clarkson’s Farm if we don’t have the ability to recharge. I’ll try and save the phone charge for photos.
The weather forecast isn’t looking great. We need 2-3 consecutive good days, one to move to 17,000ft, and then to immediately attempt to summit the second day. The 3rd day is about getting back down to 14,000. Right now, that’s not looking good. The weather for the latter half of the week looks bad. Lots of snow.
The other factor is if the weather is 50/50, Dominic will need to decide can the team move fast enough if we need to. That certainly plays into the 3rd day, when we would have to get back down. The ability of the team is mixed, we have some very fit people, and 2-3 that are more challenged.
I was talking to Mike, the 3rd guide, who has just completed Everest. He says you’re fitness is actually decreasing when you’re on the mountain, and operating at altitude. Waiting around for the weather to change will not help either. We’ll see.
As the day progressed the weather improved and the visibility increased. We saw a team head up Motorcycle hill. I asked Dominic about it, but he said they were putting themselves at risk, as the temp up high was going to drop. He says the forecast is for strong winds, and challenge up high is the wind. As the wind increases it will drop the temperature up there significantly, and he says 17,000 camp is inhospitable, with little shelter. In addition, the wind makes crossing the West Buttress very challenging. I go to sleep thinking about how challenging the West Buttress will be!




























































































