Another change in plan

There’s been another adjustment to the plan! Having arrived, pretty tired, at Camp 1 yesterday, the plan was to get up as far as Camp 2 today, and return to have a 2nd night’s sleep at Camp 1, before descending back to BC, to prepare for a summit push. However, my climbing colleague did not feel up to going to Camp 2 today, and had a terrible night’s sleep. So Terray said we should all return to BC. This was after I woke for our early start at 5 a.m. I asked if it was possible if I could try and get part way up to Camp 2, as this is the most technical section of the expedition, and technical capability ain’t my thing! So it was agreed that Ang Purba could take me up a bit, and then we would return to Camp 1, and the group would descend to BC. Another reason for me was we may not get back up here, and I did want to see the technical section, called the ice fall. Given the non-opening of Cho Oyu, most people have now focused on Manaslu. This, of course, brings the risk of crowding, especially on the more difficult sections. Groups had started up through the ice fall about 3 am, even though Camp 3 isn’t very far from Camp 2. Terray has said he is not concerned about crowding our delays, as the mountain is, generally, big enough to take the crowd.

Anyway, Ang Purba and I took off to see my capability. The technical sections begin quite close to our Camp 1, and we quickly joined a short line as we made our way through the initial section of the ice fall with massive crevasses, and narrow pathways. Of course we were double attached to the fixed lines. The secret – put your feet in Ang Purba’s footsteps, precisely in his footprints! Of course my heart was pumping – I could have sold the excess adrenalin – , and I was thinking how do we get back if there’s a big one heading up? Relax buddy!!! Then we came to a short vertical section. Out with the ascender, and look at exactly where Ang Purba put his feet in the 5 moves he took to get up. Okay, one false start, but then boom! The last move required an ice axe to secure traction to pull up. I was so chuffed. I was gasping. This was as far as we could go, so we had to belay down a hundred feet or so. Pretty steep, but slowly, slowly! That whole time was one of the most exhilarating hours of my life! Unfortunately with my hands locked to the ropes for the entire time, I didn’t grab a photo – but Ang Purba got 3.

Getting back through the relatively few people going up was quick, being careful as one unclipped then reclipped to the fixed line as you passed a person. After getting back to Camp 1, we packed our stuff and it took 2 hours to reach BC.

So the current new plan, is to rest tomorrow the 19th and pack up for a summit attempt rotation beginning the 20th. We will go on consecutive days to Camp 1,2,3,4, summit, and then descend to BC in one shot from Camp 3 or 4. That keeps us ahead of the storm on Sept 25. How far we get, who knows? For me, as far as I physically can, and out before any storm.

In the meantime we continue to feed like beasts. In base camp we have 3 large meals a day. Last night in Camp 1 it was an enchilada, and for breakfast some very eatery porridge. So eat in BC, even if it takes an effort. My snacks are quite good, but the ate out is the maple syrup sachets from Vermont. So delicious!